Institut Valencià d’Art Modern
IVAM, as it’s commonly known, is quite the contrast when compared to the last museum I visited, the Museu de Belles Arts de València. IVAM is not only dedicated to Modern Art, it is also housed in a very modern block of a building, just on the edge of Ciutat Vella. I wasn’t really planning on going to it just then, but the other museum I attempted to visit had some issues with my knapsack-like purse which I refused to stash away in a storage box — I will just have to go back there another day. Let me backtrack … I was planning to see more of El Carmen, the quaint northern part of Ciutat Vella, including Centro del Carmen Cultura Contemporánea, but that was derailed but the aforementioned rule-sticklers. So, instead, I continued to explore the area somewhat ad hoc. I ended up at IVAM totally by accident.
But, before I got there, I took my time strolling through the streets of El Carmen, desperately trying to commit to memory the twists and turns of the narrow streets. Here I found the Portal de Valldigna, the XIV century entrance to the old Arab quarter where the surrounding buildings show their age by being distinctly different from the more recent, late XIX/early XX century construction: there are fewer windows as well as floors.
Remember when I mentioned that I sometimes walk into buildings just because their doors are open? Well, I did that again … and found Jardín de Palau de Forcalló, a lovely classical garden behind a XIX century palacio that is now the home of Consell Valencià de Cultura (Culture Council of València). Unfortunately they wouldn’t allow me to stroll through the internal spaces (bloody Covid) but I did get to spend a little time outside. I’m sure the garden is even lovelier in the spring or summer, when the flowers are blooming, but I did see a few to cheer me up anyway. I hope to go back and see more of the interior once that’s possible again, too.
After the garden I proceeded to make my way through El Carmen, being surprised by a large number of murals. One of these days I’ll have to do a post just about the murals: there seem to be so many around here! Before long I came upon IVAM, however, and, as usual, I got to pay absolutely nothing to enter. The first exhibition I saw was Art i sexualitat a l’Europa d’entreguerres or Art and sexuality in Europe between the world wars. It was a fascinating glimpse at a period known for its voyeurism, cabarets, and a general falling away of strict Victorian mores. It’s always interesting to see that people in pre-WWII Europe were able to express themselves with more sexual freedom than they do today in North America (Hollywood et al notwithstanding).
The second exposition I had a chance to see was dedicated to the works of Julio González, the Barcelona-born sculptor and painter who was a contemporary of Joan Miró and a friend of Pablo Picasso. I found his art very reminiscent of Miró’s but not nearly as colourful or joyful. This, by no means, suggests that I didn’t like it; it was just a bit darker or somber than Miró’s, that’s all. I have to admit I really appreciated the craftsmanship of González’s metal work; some of his pieces have an exquisite delicacy to them heightening the contrast of the harshness of the material. All in all, I now want something like this in my house:
On my way home, I finally discovered the second set of guardian towers from the old wall that surrounded the original city of València, Torres de Quart. There used to be 12 such gates, all built in late XIV century, but now only two remain, after being demolished in 1865 on the orders of a poor excuse for a provincial governor, one Cirilio Amorós. Why anyone would destroy these ancient walls is beyond me; perhaps he was the same “bright” guy who had the Palacio Real demolished as well? Since the two events happened about 50 years apart, I will say no, but still, the XIX century fascination with tearing down significant monuments is beyond annoying. Just as an aside, the more famous gate, Puerta de Serrano (or Porta dels Serrans) is just down the street from where I’m staying right now.
To end a fun day of exploring, I somehow found my way back to el Mercat Central. Lo and behold, it must be mushroom season right now because every vegetable stand had cases of them. I was impressed with the sheer variety of ‘shrooms on display and wished I had investigated some recipes. As it turns out, instead of buying some fungi, I treated myself to a scrumptious lunch at the Bar Central, the one and only restaurant inside the Mercat. It also happens to be incredibly good, with a former Michelin-star chef at its helm. I had some meatballs in a curry sauce, the most delicious cuttlefish sandwich I’d ever had, and an even better flan. While not exactly inexpensive, this was one of the best meals I’d ever had in my life, and it was worth every penny. They also serve oysters, Ori!
